La Villa Wine Lounge & Italian Dining  
Address : 131 Soi Sukhumwit 53 , sub Soi 9
Tel : 02-712-9991
Open : daily for lunch and dinner

La Villa is a pleasant modern two-storey house standing in its own grounds on the corner of Thong Lo Soi 9. The corner site allows plenty of space for interpretation; at
the rear there is an al fresco area with a pond on either side, and on the upper floor are two private rooms.

In the centre of the dining area is a wide display table so that customers can see the choice of antipasti for the day, which includes a hefty haunch of Pata Negra ham from the famous acorn-fed black pigs of Spain. "No, not Italian,” said one of the partners, Roberto. "But at 800 baht a serving, Pata Negra is very popular here."

There is also a bowl of what looked like broken segments of Parmesan cheese, but when we tasted we remarked on its pleasant, slightly sweetish flavour. This was Bito turolatu, which is made with the addition of a sweet wine.
 

All varieties of bread are homemade, and there is a classy Pavese pizza oven in the gleaming kitchen fed by logs of eucalyptus. Fresh fish and seafood - turbot, Dover sole, sea bream, and langoustines - are imported every week from Europe.

Thick, white tablecloths, slim-line cutlery and stylish Cassina chairs in leather on wood present a reassuring picture of fine dining aspirations. "Our style is classic Italian, but with a modern touch," says Roberto.
 
As we took our seats, a plate of appetisers was put before us: cooked Italian ham on grilled bread, prawns wrapped in a thin slice of zucchini and sliced mozzarella with tomato, with the wine list. These impressed because of their range and affordable prices.
 
There are the fabled super-Tuscans and the high-end creations of great winemakers, but there is also a solid representation of good wines at between 1,100 baht and 1,950 baht.

Seventy percent are Italian, with significant contributions from South Africa, Chile and New Zealand. We specially noted merlot from Cortegiani at 1,100 baht, and Baron Ricasoli's Formule and Allegrini's Valpollicella both at an exemplary 1,300 baht. What's more, these wines are available by the glass at 260 baht and there is a good selection of others at similar prices.
 
We began with a glass of pinot grigio from the Borgo Testis estate of Fantinel (250 baht), a golden, clean tasting white wine that was both refreshing and full of flavour. A glance at the special menu for the day immediately evoked interest. There were Croccolete di gamberi, croquettes of shrimp and potatoes in mustard salsa (300 baht), Costata di manzo, 600 gramme Australian T-bone steak from the grill at 1,250 baht, Salumi misto, an assortment of sausage and salami (480 baht) and Breasaola di cavallo, air-dried horsemeat with Italian dressing.

The farming and consumption of horsemeat is controversial, especially in Anglo-Saxon countries, but there is a honourable horsemeat tradition in Italy and France and other European countries and it is known to be high in protein and low in fat and cholesterol. This was the first time we had seen it on a menu in Bangkok.
 

La Villa's chef, Antonio Facchinetti, brought to the table a selection of main courses in tasting portions on a large platter that looked like a culinary artist's palette. He also brought a special serving of casserla, which he described as winter food. Milan is in Lombardy, right at the top of central Italy near the Alps and the lakes, and the weather is often cold.

But casserla does not need cold weather to be both delicious and comforting. It is basically a homely dish of pork, pepper and cabbage slowly braised with herbs. The long, slow cooking gives time for all the flavours and textures to merge together in a rich and aromatic fusion.
 
With the bowl of casserla on the dish before us was another local speciality, this time from Bergamo, the region of Lombardy north of Milan. Casoncelli are large, round pasta envelopes stuffed with a mixture of pork, salami, mortadella and Parmesan cheese (300 baht). If you are a lover of ravioli, these will surely belong on your list of priorities forever.

Risotto fanciers, too, will appreciate Antonio'